Himalayan Odyssey (Lahaul & Spiti Valley)

Day 2 - June 9 2008

Chandertal - Kazaa - Kibber - 160 km

Early morning after sipping hot tea and arming ourselves with info on the approach road to the lake from Dhaba owner, we proceeded towards Chandertal Lake. It was the most awaited day for both of us as we were about to see one of the wonderful lakes in Himalayas. It was a cloudy

and cold morning and we were covered with 4 layers of cloths to withstand the cold breeze. We started our journey with a backpack which had couple of cameras and a water bottle. Chandertal is at 14 Km from Batal and the road thereon proved to be another challenge altogether- high altitudes, narrow tracks, steep ravines, rock/pebble infested, water courses/ falls through the roads and no signboards. We were warned of huge rocks fallen in middle of the road blocking the way, but as said by dhaba owner it was not a problem for a pulsar to pass through.

As we gained the altitude, we saw the Chandra river bed which approximately I hope was not less than a kilometer wide and shined like a silver snake. Further after crossing some freezing streams, we came across a glacier which had almost blocked the way. One mistake and both of us will be rolling hundreds of meters down the hill into the river and straight to heaven. There was a very small passage to pass the bike but the road was totally wet by the melting glacier and we had no other option but to cross it. I got down and walked through the glacier and told anil to come as close as he can towards glacier to cross the route. Woof! It was a great experience.

One hour had already passed and we were shivering from and freezing wind and wet shoes, still in search of lake in an alien place surrounded by mighty snow-clad mountains. The narrow road bought us to an open area, which was almost like a field and the road was flat and straight. We were surprised to see such a vast open area at that altitude. No wonder why Himalayas are known as one of the mysterious places on earth. There was one more incline with switchbacks and I had to hike a distance as the machine couldn’t pull us both. The terrain looked familiar as seen in photographs and a signboard with Welcome to Chandertal Lake written on it, stood at a distance. The place was too slippery and was wet due to the mist and was difficult to ride the bike. It was extremely cold and agonizing there; finally we saw the wonderful lake and stopped our bike. Lake was quite at a distance and I went in search of a trail and saw one leading down below, but not negotiable with a bike. We went about looking for an approach and were wondering how to get to the shore, but couldn’t take bike any further. It had to be done walking down and we both knew that could cost us whole day in Chandertal, which was out of our plan for the day.

We were trembling from freezing temperature and took some time to warm ourselves. Chandertal Lake is situated at an altitude of about 4300 meters on a plateau (Samudra Tapu) overlooking the Chandra River.

The lake looked beautiful under the cloud covered red mountains. The name of the lake originates from its crescent shape. We were not lucky enough to see the lake in bright sunlight under blue sky as it was completely cloudy. Lake appeared Prussian blue in color, and a greenish tinge of water had the perfect reflection of mountains and clouds in it. The exquisiteness of nature made us spell bonded. Though we wanted to stay there for some more time, weather warned us to leave. Capturing the magnificence of Chandertal in our cameras and brain we headed back towards Batal. It’s another ninety minutes ride in the cold mountain land to reach Batal. We were so exited while coming to Chandertal but now only thing in our mind was to reach Batal before it starts raining. On the way we met a sumo driver who was waiting for a trekking group to come and was wondering if his sumo will make it till Chandertal Lake. We told him to wait at the same place as there was no way for a sumo to Chandertal Lake. Later after reaching Batal at Chandra dhaba we came to know that BRO cleans the road to Chandertal every year and in next couple of weeks road clearing will start, which makes it possible for vehicles like sumo to go till lake.

During summer there are many trekkers, bikers and cyclist’s who camp by the Shore of Chandertal Lake. In winters it is merely not possible to reach Chandertal to see the frozen view of the lake. On return to Batal, we started packing our luggage and were ready for our further journey to Kazaa. After a small photo session and delectable breakfast, we started the journey on our steel horse saying good bye to Batal. It was an uphill journey till Kunzum Pass, which took a toss of the bike. At many places we were riding on the glacier and the road was almost wet everywhere due to melting glacier. Walking such an uphill with a 15KG back pack in such hostile condition was agonizing. But seeing the surrounding we forgot all the pain. It was heaven on earth at Kunzum La. Kunzum la (altitude 4551 m) is entrance pass to Spiti Valley from Lahaul Valley. Kunzum La which is at a distance of 9km from Chandra Tal is one of the highest passes in Lahaul and Spiti. Surrounded by Himalayan ranges from all the sides, Kunzum pass was a delight to our eyes. There is a Kunzum Devi temple at the top, and which is believed as one need to take a Parikrama of the temple before moving further. While we were at Kunzum, we met a person from Chandigarh who had come along with his wife in a Hyundai Santro, and had plans to reach Manali by dusk. Soon after taking a Parikrama of the temple and a traditional photo next to the Altitude board (4551 m), we continued our journey.

As we started descending from KUNZUM LA, we saw a notable change in vegetation from white and grey slopes to green valley, some breathtaking landscapes and some wild roads kept me busy all the time clicking photos. A big welcome gate saying "Most Welcome to Spiti Valley" was in front of us. Couple of photos in front of the Spiti gate and were back on the road. Finding good metaled road, anil was delighted after what we’ve been through and cruised on the flat road. It was like feeding our bike 110 octane methanol. After a long long time anil was actually able to shift to the fourth and fifth cogs and raced towards Lossar. Lossar is a small village in high Himalayas with not more than 100 in population, but well connected with all basic needs of life. After many days we saw the idiot box with Dish TV.

We found out that the next 57 km to KAZAA were smooth and we'd make it in 2 hrs max. So we decided to have a hasty lunch and then move towards Kazaa. Lunch was Parathas, Dal, Rice, and Eggs. The place was almost like the normal hotels we see with Tables, Chairs and Fan (i still wonder why they even need a fan). A seat overlooking the road and huge mountains at the background, hmmm it was not less than a 5-star hotel and worth a million bucks. Now as we knew the roads were good hereafter we felt relaxed, but mid day sun had heated up the road and the heavy back pack was making me feel worst. Though roads were good, it was a butt wrenching ride in that hot sun which had already tanned our face. After a couple of pit stops, some switch backs and amazing landscapes we reached Kazaa before sundown. Not wasting much time we booked a room with double bed and attached toilet, which after negotiating was Rs.200 for a night (Really worth for a night stay). Kazaa being the capital of Lahaul and Spiti is situated along the Spiti River at an elevation of 3,800 meters, has all the basic amenities and attracts travelers from across the globe to experience the Magical Himalayas. Though there were many lodges in Kazaa, ours was not less than any luxurious one. Kazaa is the largest township and commercial center of the valley.

After washing our dusty faces and getting fresh, we had hot tea and moved towards Ki Monastery. It is the biggest monastery of Spiti Valley and a religious training center for Lamas, which is at around 10 Km from KAZAA. This old monastery, which dates from around 1000 AD, is one of the oldest in Spiti Valley. This monastery is located on top of a hill, which is connected with a well maintained road. When we entered the monastery a lama came to show us the main temple. Sun was on his way back home and the Lamas in the monastery were ready for their dinner. We were amused by seeing the fantastic art work on the walls of huge monastery at that altitude and the lamas living there in such harsh conditions.

It was now time to say good bye after taking some memorable photos in Ki. We now headed towards KIBBER, once the world’s highest motorable village. Kibber is located at a height of about 14,200 ft in a narrow valley on the summit of a limestone rock. Kibber is rather a pleasant village with plenty of cultivation, lush green fields, which look strikingly refreshing against the arid backdrop of lofty hills. The remarkable feature about the architecture is the use of stone instead of mud or adobe brick used extensively in the valley. There are a civil dispensary, a high school, a post office, a telegraph office and a community TV set in the village. We both were glad we made it till here on bike. We then rode back straight to the lodge and opened the old monk we had kept for the evening. Day 2 ended after having delicious Phulke and gobi for dinner.

Day 2 places and distance -

Batal to Chandertal to Batal - 30

Batal to Lossar - 30 km
Lossar to Hanse - 20 km
Hanse to Morang to Rangrik - 30 km
Rangrik to kaza - 10 km
Kaza to Ki monastery - 9 km
Ki Monastery to Kibber - 11 km
Kibber to Kaza - 19 km